Cape to Cape Expedition
Bering Strait
January 2001
Objectives:
To experience at first hand the conditions on the
straits in winter and with that benefit consider the method and timing of a
crossing attempt.
Wales 65º 37’N 168º05’W
Personnel: Steve Burgess and Nicky Spinks
Conditions: Wales
The few days that we spent in Wales were considered
“stormy and rough” by locals. Our arrival and departure was subject to many
delays and postponement, a gusting 30mph wind whipping up snow into often
whiteout conditions. Keeping the airstrip open was almost a full time job.
Drifts were cleared and the plane given the ok to land but by the time the
plane arrives ribbons of snow would be building up again making taxiing
difficult needless to say turnaround was instant.
Daylight was limited to a few hours of dusk but
occasionally the wind did ease and the sky cleared enough to allow a hazy sun
shine through. One such occasion we climbed the very start of the continental
divide and looked out over the straits towards the Diomedes and Russia.
The temperature fluctuated little between ‾ 25
and ‾ 28°C but combined with the wind gave a wind chill of ‾ 80 to ‾ 90°C.
Transport: Land
Nome although isolated from the Alaska Road network
by some 500 miles has good local roads, cleared of snow in winter – both taxi
and car hire are available. Outside of Nome winter transport is snow machine
and summer transport is A.T.V.
Air
Nome is served by Alaska Airlines. Outlying areas,
including Wales are well served by a number of the following companies and
probably more:
Arctic Transport Services (freight only)
Baker Air
Bering Air
Cape Smythe Air
Evergreen Helicopters
Grant Air
Olson Air
In winter flights are not timetabled – purchase your
ticket and manifest then wait for a weather window. Some airlines fly in
smaller and less clear windows than others – its very much dependant on the
experience of the pilot! Most people just go on a first available basis, changing to another company doesn’t seem to
be a problem. We flew into Wales on Bering Air but left on Cape Smythe. At the
time Cape Smythe had a reputation for flying in less clement weather than most.
If you have made prior arrangements with your
destination someone will meet you with a snow machine as landing strips can be
some distance from the communities that they serve.
Accommodation: Nome
To join the unofficial club of adventurers and gold diggers we stayed at the Nugget Inn but there are quite a few cheap alternatives.
Wales
We stayed with Daniel Richards or AlaskDan who has accommodated most of the expeditions who have come to the Strait.
Winter Transport
Gear
The clothing we took was, with the exception being
our footwear, regular available, UK, Outdoor clothing and all performed
exceptionally well in extreme conditions:
Patra silks – vest, leggings, glove liners,
balaclavas
Damart – thermal vests, leggings, socks
Gelert – fleeces
Lowe Alpine – gloves
Extremities Clothing – mitts
Vango – outer jacket and fleece lining.
Local hats and “Kamik” felt lined boots were bought
from REI 1200 W Northern Lights Boulevard, Anchorage. Ski goggles and neoprene
face masks were borrowed from locals and made being outside more bearable but
were considered absolutely essential for riding snow machines. Northern
Outfitters was the preferred outdoor clothing manufacturer of people working
outside in the region and we were very impressed by it.
Nicky Spinks
Findings:
It is now widely accepted that due to global warming
winter is coming to the straits later and later and it is less cold than in the
past. A tradition has grown up in Nome that after Christmas householders take
their Christmas trees and plant them in the ice – thus creating a temporary
forest on the ice. We were in Nome on the 15th January and still no
fixed shore ice had formed thick and fast enough for anyone to venture out; the
trees were piled up and waiting. Further examples: firstly Channel 4 TV wanted
to host millennium celebrations on the ice straddling the international
dateline but there was insufficient ice. Secondly, in winter mail is usually
delivered to Little Diomede by Plane. As soon as the ice forms the islanders
construct a runway on the sea and thus a plane can land. January 2001 during
our visit mail was having to be brought in by helicopter, much more costly, as
there was insufficient ice.
The ice usually starts to form in early December,
the wind and currents constantly breaking it up and pushing it towards the
land, blocks are pushed both above and below the skin on the surface. What is
above forms a random pile of ice blocks and what goes below builds up until it
wedges firmly and freezes to the shallow sea bed and shore. Only when this has
taken place is it safe to venture onto the now land locked ice. This takes
place on both Russian and Alaskan coasts but it only accounts for a relatively
short distance over the strait; after that it is a constantly moving patchwork
of slabs and leads. Locals feel that if shore ice didn’t build within the next
two weeks i.e. By mid January it may not happen at all that year From the shore
the dark outline of open water was clear to see..
Considering firstly the effect climate change is
having on the area coupled with the inconsistency of the surface we (and
expeditions previous, (Land Rover)) easily concluded driving over the ice is
not our option. Constructing a one-off machine with a capability to clamber
through and over ice flow whilst remaining buoyant has been the preferred
option of some; Richard Creasy, Ford Overland Challenge and Steve Brooks Ice
Challenger, but that did not comply with our overall objective of driving Cape
to Cape.
Springtime May / June is considered to be an extremely dangerous time to be on the straits. The ice is breaking up in the thaw and is much more free to move about in the open water creating a high risk of getting crushed between the blocks. The principal hazard in July / August is low sea fog – it is reported you can often see land from the mast head as the fog hangs close to the water surface. There will also be the advantage of longer daylight hours in summer.
Conclusions:
The conclusions from this short,
costly but valuable recce visit are not hard to draw. Considering our own
expedition criteria, the information gathered on this trip and from prior and
subsequent research, the expedition must arrive on the straits before the
Siberian spring. It will then probably wait until July / August before
converting to its amphibian state and crossing in relatively ice free and
favourable sea conditions.
Accurate weather predictions and a thorough
understanding of the prevailing sea currents will be crucial.
Frozen Straits
Weather Statistics
Some 30 years worth of data is available from
various sources for the area Uelen – Kotzbue – Nome, though some seems
contradicting. Apart from obvious seasonal differences the unique position of
the straits and the local topography conspire to create almost any weather
condition at almost any time. Analysis of data, some examples given below, wind
speed, direction, storm probability and extent of pack ice indicate July /
August to be the most favourable time to be on the straits.
Wind Direction + Speed - Bering Strait
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June July
August
Limits of Sea Ice
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End of June End
of July
End
of August